The Smokies from near Taig an Drama Day 6 - Greve in Chianti

(I am actually writing this on our last day in Sicily. Much has happened and I have come to know the Italian driving habits (if maniac can be thought of as a habit) but I must hold that discussion till the appropriate time.)


Today is our last full day in Tuscany and, with a fair weather forecast, we plan to do a little driving through the countryside and perhaps stop at a winery. I must say that, as we reviewed the ten day weather forecast before departing, it appeared that we were in for some less than excellent weather. Driving down the old dirt roadHowever, except for some early morning rain and some afternoon showers/drenchings, it has proved to be quite pleasant. The mornings have been cool, perhaps long sleeve weather and the afternoons warm.


Since we had decided that we were in for a day of scenery, I set the Our Lady of the GPS to ignore the interstate (or the autostrada in Italian). I was soon to discover that this meant we would be traveling down what amounted to a single lane gravel road. However, we took this in stride seeing it as just another adventure in a string of adventures.


Merv and Pam were traveling in another car and we were quickly separated. However, via text we were able to reunite. As they pulled up behind us, I noticed a sign pointing down another gravel road to a winery and so we took the road less traveled. We had driven for several kilometers were just wondering if we had missed a turn (there weren't many) or if it was in the next county when we encountered another sign. Hope renewed, we continued on down the road and finally arrived at the Brancaia Winery. I quickly rationalized that wineries were established long before tourists so their location was not based on proximity to major roads and tourists. However, our hostess explained that this winery was established in 1981 and, therefore, did not predate tourism blowing my theory away.


We sampled two Chiantis - the first a blend and the second a classico (a classico must be produced only from the Chianti grape). After the tasting, Merve purchased a bottle of the blend which I agreed was the better of the two. It was a bit fruitier while the classico was much bolder. The classico would have paired better with a good bolognese while the blend wasThe menu for the Antica Macelleria Falorni much better suited for sitting around and drinking.


From there, we set the GPS for a restaurant (the Antica Macelleria Falorni) in Greve (pronounced grev-eh, short e on both letters) which Pam knew specialized in serving meat. However, when Our Lady said turn left, the roadway was blocked. Pulling off to discuss the situation, we decided that trying to tag along was not productive and we parted ways with Amy and Erin with me and Pam, Merv and Sharon together.


We drove back through town until we found a parking garage that was just off of the main piazza. As we entered the Piazza Giacomo Matteotti, we were greeted by a bronze statue of an armless, legless and headless man, though all of his other parts were present. We discovered that they were setting up for a weekend festival which accounted for the blocked street. A banner revealed that they were celebrating La Vetrina Delle Cittaslow which, as best Google can translate is The Showcase of the Slow Food (as opposed to fast food). That probably explains why the logo is a snail.


Near the middle of the piazza stands a large bronze statue of Giovanni de Verrazzano, complete with all parts including clothes. Giovanni was a renowned explorer best known for exploring the east coast of America from Florida to New Brunswick. You may know him from the Verrazzano Narrows in New York harbor and the bridge that also bares his name.


The Antica Macelleria Falorni was full so we strolled around the piazza, taking in the shops and decided to stop at a small sidewalk ristorante, La Terraza, across the piazza. Here I ordered the pasta di salmone con pepe verde or salmon pasta with green peppers. I had seen this on several menus and had assumed that green pepper referred to green bell peppers. However, to my delight, it was green peppercorns that, when sauted, not only gave a snappy crunch to the dish but left a peppery kick in the back of the throat. A very tasty dish that I will have to try again.


Leaving Greve, we wandered back toward Il Colombai looking for an olive oil tasting place. However, we could not find one and even Erin's iPhone couldn't come through, so we slow drove back savoring our last full day in Tuscany.


For our last night in Tuscany, we returned to the Ristorante Compagna for our last meal. I had the gnocchi with Gorgonzola and the spaghetti with clams. And of course a few glasses of the house red. With that we bid adio to our waiter and returned to the farm.

The road to the Brancaia Winery

Our two tastings and our hostess

The armless, headless, legless statue

Giovanni de Verrazzono

The Basilaca de Sante Croce

The sign of the Snail

Vineyards of the Brancaia Winery

To Day 7 - Tuscany to Sicily