The Smokies from near Taig an Drama Day 7 - Tuscany to Sicily

Today we say adio to the lovely state of Tuscany and start the next phase of our trip - Sicily. We had our final breakfast (which I have come to enjoy) and with many a ciao bella and grazie we take leave of Guissepena e Paolo and hit the road to Rome where I will drop off Amy and Erin at a hotel in the heart of the city.


The trip south to Rome was completely uneventful, our route being along the autostrada with guard rails along both sides to prevent any picture taking. We had been warned against driving in Rome but, as we had no choice, we consigned our souls to fate and charged on. Perhaps it was that it was Saturday morning or perhaps it's because I lived for some years in Memphis, but, while I found the navigation a challenge, the actual drive was no worse than, say DC. Unfortunately, it was but a warm up to what we would encounter in Sicily.


Dropping the girls off directly across the street from their hotel, we proceeded to the aeroporto and, as we made a turn, there directly ahead lay the Colosseum! I knew that we were near it but had not intended to take that route assuming the "madding" crowds would be a problem. However, Our Lady of the GPS decided that this was the best way to get to the airport. While there was a considerable crowd it was still early and that probably accounted for it not being larger. We drove around about a third of the structure, cameras flashing, and were soon heading on our merry way. I have to say that we made only three wrong turns along the way, nothing major, and Our Lady brought us quickly back on course.


We turned in our station wagon (no sad goodbyes there) and proceed to check in for our flight which was maybe more confusing than the trip through the heart of Rome. We finally caught up to Merv and Pam who were having a bite to eat so we joined them. We thought we had plenty of time, but after our brief lunch, we arrived at our gate (at the farthest end of the concourse, of course) to find them boarding. Actually we boarded shuttles that drove us half way to Sicily so that we could then board our 737.


The flight to Catania Sicily (or Sicilia in the local language) was once again uneventful and, after landing, we soon found the rental counter. The language thing was somewhat of a problem, but we overcame it. However, when they asked me for a second credit card, I thought we had hit a major stumbling block...I only have one credit card and they had it. I'm not sure what happened (perhaps it was me telling them that I had just turned in a car to Hertz in Rome that I had rented with ONE credit card) but we soon had our keys and then made our way to the car lot.


To my delight, we actually had the model I had reserved - a Nissan Qashquai, a short SUV equivalent to a Rogue Sport in the States. Thank-fully we would not have the over sized station wagon that we had left in Rome. This car's instrumentation package is similar to my Pathfinder which made the driving easier. However, driving it through many of the Sicilian streets is like squeezing a half gallon of wine into a one liter bottle. Fortunately with Merv and Pam's frugal luggage packing, we were also able to get all of the luggage in the smaller car. With Our Lady leading the way, we proceeded the 30+ miles to our new home in Acireale. (Just to prove that the Italians periodically want to mess with us, here the trailing "e" is silent!) Again, we made a few wrong turns but otherwise it was quite uneventful. (A note from after our return - I liked this car so much that I have traded my Pathfinder for a Rogue!)


On arriving, we met our hosts, Matteo and Anna. While Matteo was a handsome man, Anna put the bella in belladonna. Their house, which we learned had been in the family for at least three generations, was lovely with updated bathrooms, a large gathering area (which I would epitomize as a living room), a decently appointed kitchen and a large covered veranda. Oh yes, and a small heard of cats constantly wanting attention. Matteo gave us several recommendations of places to eat, things to see and wine shops! And he made us a dinner reservation at La Locanda degli Abbatazzi, a ristorante that he recommended.


Though only 3.6km and 12 minutes away, I got my first real taste of what I was in for while driving in Sicily. The streets were narrow (and I mean narrow, no station wagons through here) and so are the people when it comes to driving. To quote Moe of the Three Stooges "It's all for one and every man for himself" and damn the torpedoes (I added that). We survived till we found a parking lot and and then made our way to the ristorante where we were greeted by our host Salvatore. Sharon and I split an order of steamed mussels for our antipasto. Big mistake! These were the best damn mussels I've ever put in my mouth. They were large, tender and delicious. And I mean delicious. Should have had my own order. Hell, I should have ordered another whole order on top of that. I will never get back to that restaurant and I do not think I will ever eat mussels like that again.


Pam and I both had the frutti di mare alla griglia mista (mixed seafood grill)  which included a whole (eyeballs and all) sea bass. I tore into mine with no worry for the bones. Pam on the other hand was more tentative. Seeing this, Salvatore came over and, with fork and spoon, deftly removed the bones along the back and stomach and presented her with two lovely deboned fillets. Eccellente!


Sated, we headed back to the house and called it a day. A long day.


As we left Il Columbaio, we bid adio to this old church that we passed many times on our trips.

Our excellent home for the next three days

La Locanda degli Abbatazzi

The frutti di mare alla griglia mista (mixed seafood grill)

Just a few members of our herd of cats

The entrance gate to our home in Acireale, Sicily - No. 2 Via Apollo

My first look at the Colosseum traveling down Via degli Annibaldi



Absolutely the best steamed mussels I have ever eaten

To Day 8 - Agrigento