Today we plan a trip to the home of St. Francis of Assisi -
Except for the misguided attempt to see Perugia, the trip was uneventful. Assisi lies just east of Tuscany in the state of Umbria. I must say that we have been spoiled by the scenic beauty of Tuscany. In Umbria, we encountered considerably more industry and blocks of apartment houses. A
nd this was just what we could see from the state route.
As we entered Assisi, we happened upon the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli (Saint Mary of the Angels), a large Basilica constructed in the 16th century to greet the many pilgrims making their way to the home of St. Francis. Within he walls of he Basilica is the La Porziuncola, a smaller church that was a favorite of St. Francis and was the birthplace of the Franciscan movement. Today it is revered by the Franciscan monks who are much in evidence in the Basilica.
After stopping at the Basilica, we proceed on toward the Basilica e al Sacro Convento di San Francesco (the Basilica and the Sacred Convent of Saint Francis) in Assisi which we could see perched prominently upon the hill before us. The Basilica and adjoining complex is a magnificent assemblage of buildings with the Basilica standing on the western end of the site. Access is quite direct and we drove to just below the Basilica, parked in the underground garage and started the easy climb to the church. It being lunch, we decided to stop for a bite before entering the church. I settled for a simple pici con funghi (pici pasta with mushrooms) and we were quickly on our way.
We entered the Basilica with hat in hand and cameras turned off. Though this was neither the largest nor the most ornate church I have visited, it was certainly the most spiritual and, I dare say, the most holy. Signs immediately directed me to the stairs down to the crypt where the body of St. Francis is interred and, with great reverence, I entered the underground mausoleum. Though I observed people surreptitiously taking photographs, I refrained, though greatly tempted, out of reverence and respect for the location I found myself. I finally wandered back up the steps and walked reverently around the interior observing the magnificent stain glass windows and statues within the Basilica. I finally took leave and, with Pam, Merv and Sharon, we made our way back down the hill to the car.
As we drove out of Assisi, Pam asked Merv where he was headed next. At first he said he had a destination in mind but, with coaxing from Pam, he finally revealed that we would be returning to Pienza. You see, one of the things that Pienza is famous for and the one thing we missed on our previous stop is its Porchetta sandwiches. Porchetta is a savoury, fatty, and moist boneless pork roast in which the carcass is deboned, stuffed with liver, wild fennel and, with all of the fat and skin still on, spitted, and roasted over a wood fire for a minimum of eight hours. What results is quite beyond words. Leave me to say that, served on a flat brioche bun, the meat and fillings are delicious but the crispy crunchy skin is the real hero. And, since that was not decadent enough, we followed it up with the best gelato in Pienza, in my case chocolate, of course.
After this, there was really nothing left to top it so we proceeded back to Il Colombaio where we spread the leftover cheese, meats and olives from our previous dinner. Of course, the wine was fresh out of the bottle. And with that, we called it a night and I repaired to my bed in the tower.
Along the road to Assisi
The Basilica of St. Francis upon the hill
Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi
I do do selfies
The Entrance to the Basilica of St. Francis
The original Basilica sits atop the new Basilica
A panoramic view of the countryside from the ramparts of Pienza
The Blessed Virgin atop the portico of the
Basilica e al Sacro Convento di San Francesco
The Basilica Di Santa Maria degli Angeli
