Day 4 - The Hill Towns

Today we venture to the three hill towns of Montalcino, Pienza and Montepulciano. These towns lie southeast of Siena through some of the most beautiful country in Tuscany. Though the day started out overcast, it was a lovely drive to Montalcino.

Montalcino was first settled by the Etruscans though it was not mentioned in historical documents until the 9th century. It sits along the old Via Francigena, in its day the major road from Rome to Florence. In medieval times it was known for it leather goods and it eventually came under the powerf On the road to Montalcino ul city of Siena, Today it is better know for its Brunello wine and we found wine tasting and sales on every corner.

Amy was driving this day as we followed Merv through the countryside. On entering the town, Merv missed a turn and we quickly found ourselves winding through the narrow medieval streets. This put Amy on high alert and me hovering on cardiac arrest. We had at least one tight squeeze past a delivery truck until, fortunately, Merv found a parking area and we quickly took refuge. From this point of sanctuary, we proceeded to walk up toward the town and the castle. We were greeted with wonderful vistas of the surrounding countryside of the Asso, Ombrone and Arbia valleys of Tuscany, dotted with silvery olive orchards, vineyards, fields and villages. As I have mentioned, these towns were founded on hill tops for a reason and, due to the small size Montalcino, the reason is quite evident from the town.

Our first stop was in a small wine shop where Merv plopped down €3.50 for a tasting of a Brunello that cost €50.00 per bottle (he passed on the purchase). We proceeded up the hill (without a purchase) towards the hill top castle. The inside of the castle was but a shell with none of the Along the streets of Montalcino structures still standing. However, it is impressive with its five towers and thick walls.

Leaving the castle we wound our way down the steep cobblestone streets passing quaint shops and finally decided to stop at a corner shop for a cappuccino. While sipping the hot brew, I felt something hit my hat which I first took for a present from the local pigeons. However, before I could look up we felt drops of water which we then took as a spot of rain coming out of the single cloud above us. We quickly realized that we had taken seat beneath a group of pigeons who had decided to take their morning bath in the roof gutters above our heads. Just as we started moving up the hill a large shower of water descended on what had just been our table. We moved several tables up the hill where we were able to save other patrons from the watery fate that we had escaped.

Recharged, we decided it was time to take leave of the lovely city of Montalcino and proceed on to our next stop - Pienza.

Pienza is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is known as the "touchstone of Renaissance urbanism." First recorded in the 9th century as Corsignano, it was later changed to Pienza by Pope Pius II who was born in the town. Pope Pius named it after himself so I can only assume that Pienza must mean something like home or town of Pius. The center of the town is dominated by the Duomo in the main piazza. As usual, the narrow streets were a profusion of shops of many kinds. Just off of the main piazza, we found a small ristorante with outdoor covered eating where we stopped for lunch. I had a delicious plate of pici pasta (a rustic noodle about the size of a short, fat earth worm) with bolognese which is a tomato and meat sauce. As with all Italian pastas dishes, the pasta is the hero of the dish and the sauce is an accompaniment. Unlike our American pasta dishes laden with sauce, this lets the delicate flavor of the pasta shine through. Many Americans are put off by this but I find it quite delightful. Perhaps it is because our boxed and dried pasta taste cannot stand up to the light of day. With the pici I had an order of steamed artichokes which were very tasty. The meal was rounded out with a glass of the house red wine. I should mention that it is not necess Along the road to Pienza ary to buy an expensive bottle of wine when the house wine will stand up beside most of the bottle wines we buy at home.

Pienza is also the home of what Steve had described as the most magnificent sandwich he had ever eaten - the porchetta. As the name implies, it is a sandwich of pork, but not just any pork. It is the whole carcass, deboned, stuffed with liver and wild fennel and spitted with all of the skin and fat left on. Roasted over wood for eight hours minimum, sliced thin and served on a plain white bread. Unfortunately, when we found the Salumeria Bernardini Laura sandwich shop just off of the the Duomo square, we were still sated from lunch and, so, had to pass.

After our meal, we wound around the Duomo and along the outer wall where we once again had a magnificent view of the surrounding countryside. Though quite peaceful today, I could virtually see the invading armies approaching our defenses on the ramparts of the city.

We had yet another city to visit before the day was out and so we took leave of Pienza and hit the road to Montepulciano. As Amy drove, the clouds finally decided to open and we were hit with a very heavy rain. Passing the drivers that did not have our fortitude, we bravely proceeded onward. However, when we began to be pelted with large hail, we decided it was time to bow to nature's fury and pull off the road.

We sat for perhaps ten minutes until the hail subsided and we pushed on up the hill where we found the road covered in the icy pellets. Toughing it out, we finally found only wet pavement and proceeded on to Montepulciano. Unfortunately, while the hail had moved on, it appeared that the rain, like an invading army, was going to lay siege to Montepulciano. We sat in a parking lot for about fifteen minutes before deciding to give in to nature and abandon the remainder of our day. Bidding ciao to Montepulciano, we headed back to Il Colombiao with hopes that we could return at a later date.