Day 3 - The Isle of Skye, the Misty Isle

On day three we arose for our usual breakfast for our second day on Skye. I should take a moment to describe a typical Scottish breakfast (at least as it’s served to we tourists). It always includes poached eggs, usually cooked quite firm though with still a slightly runny yoke, sausage equivalent to English bangers (and which I detest), black pudding (made from sheep’s blood), rashers of bacon, fruit, toast and cereal, usually a museli. Often sautéed mushrooms are served and generally oats (or as they say her in the Highlands, porridge). My preference is for an egg, a rasher of bacon, toast, coffee and, when available, porridge, or, when not, museli. I will certainly include some mushrooms when they are served.

After breaking our fast, we boarded the luxury coach (never referred to as a bus on threat of expulsion) for an early morning dram of that Highland nectar, Whisky (never with an “e”), or as it’s more commonly known in the colonies, Scotch. (By the way, only Whisky is referred to as Scotch, a Scotsman is a Scot. I would not say that a tourist has ever been run through with a claymore for referring to a Scotsman as Scotch...but I cannot say that one hasn’t, either.) Our first stop is Talisker Distillery, the only such on the Isle of Skye. Curiously, as we arrived for our tour, we were presented with a dram of the single malt. This is usually reserved for the end of the tour. Perhaps they just wanted to put us in the right mood. I will say that, if that were their aim, they aimed well. For a most jovial tour we had. And I would be remiss not to mention that Talisker makes an excellent Whisky.

The distilling of spirits is a complex procedure, one that differs little in the overall process but greatly in the details. All Whisky must contain at least 51% barley which is grown throughout Scotland. And the barley must first be malted which results in a grain that has developed just the right amount of sugar (which is required to develop the prime ingredient, alcohol). Once the grain is correctly malted, it then is dried utilizing, in the case of most Highland Whisky, dried peat which imparts a rich, smokey flavor to the barley. Now I have found that, when the barley attains the correct percentage of sugar and is correctly dried, it makes a mighty good cereal requiring no sugar or other additive. The drying process imparts a nutty flavor to the grain and would surely be highly sought if marketed as such. Unfortunately, the cost would most likely be prohibitive due to the value of the grain as an ingredient in Whisky. It would appear that I will have to satisfy my craving with the occasional visit to a Highland distillery.

Another curious aspect of the preparation of Whisky is the barreling process. In the US of A, the law requires that the barrel in which the whiskey (with an “e”) is aged be used but once. After that, it must be discarded. Perhaps you have purchased a Jack Daniels used whiskey barrel as a planter or dog house. I envy the dog that must sleep in it each night. On the other hand, Scotch Whisky is barreled in previously utilized sherry and bourbon barrels. Prior to use, the inside of the barrel is refinished to eliminate flavors from the previous use. Whisky makers will reuse a barrel as many as five times. Eventually, the refinishing results in a barrel too thin for use and is then discarded (again for planters, dog houses, etc.).

Different whiskies are imparted different flavors based upon the source of the water and peat and, oddly enough, on the shape of the still. Each distillery closely guards its still configuration from their competition. When the Talisker distillery burned in 1960, they were careful to reconstruct their still to the same exact dimensions as the original.

After our educational, and invigorating, stop at Talisker, we journeyed a short way to the port of Portree, the largest city on Skye. This is also the home of Alex’s Father, and, consequently, his Granny and Granpa. He took time to visit the churchyard where they rest as he does each year.

Portree is also a great town for shopping as was evident by the crowded sidewalks. Amy managed to acquire a few items and I, as always, stood by to assist in any way I could.

Leaving Portree, we set out up the northeast coast of Skye. Our first stop was a curious geological formation known as Kilt Rock for its vertical striations that resemble the pleats of a kilt. Kilt Rock is a sheer 300 foot cliff terminating in the The Minch. Just off from the observation area is a freshwater waterfall that falls directly into the ocean. This is one of only a few such waterfalls in the world.

Continuing along the coast, we came Staffin Museum, a reproduction of a traditional crofter village. However, rather than visit this, I chose to continue up the hill to the small graveyard that contains the remains of Flora MacDonald, one of Scotland’s most famous heroines. Here I will take a moment to relate her story for it is tied not only to Scotland, but also to America.

At the end of the last Jacobite rebellion in 1746 (referred to as the Bold 45 because it began with the landing of Bonnie Prince Charlie at Moidart in July of the previous year), the Scots were thoroughly and soundly defeated at the Battle of Culloden on Drumossie Moore. Prince Charlie, with a price on his head of £30,000, fled the field and was pursued throughout the Highland by the loyalists. In a final move, he was taken from the island of Benbecula to Skye aboard a boat own by a MacCrimmon. On board was Flora MacDonald who, by dressing Prince Charlie as her Irish handmaiden, was able to sneak him passed the English. From Skye he made his way back to exile in Italy where he died a penniless drunkard and is today buried. However, at the time, many loyal Jacobites prayed for his return, all in vain.

For her part in the escape, Flora MacDonald spent a year imprisoned in an English tower. She then migrated to the American colonies where she lived for some years in what was to become N. Carolina. (Up until just a few years ago, a Scottish festival was held annually in her name.) However, when the American Revolution broke out, she sided with the Tories and returned to Scotland and thus is buried near her childhood home upon Skye. For his part in the escape, the MacCrimmon was given the recipe for Drambui and, to this day, you will find the name of MacCrimmon on each and every bottle.

And, as thus ends this tale, so ends my day. Good night.

Barrels of fine Whisky aging in the Talisker stonehouse

The lovely Harbour of Portree

The 300’ cliff of Kilt Rock with the wee waterfall in the foreground