Today, our fourth day of our return, is a traveling day and, as such, has very few activities scheduled. In fact, it has only one main activity and this is a stop at the Aros Experience Visitor Center on our way to Portree. Here we had a very interesting presentation of the endeavor to reintroduce the sea eagle to Scotland. The sea eagle is a very majestic bird that was indigenous to Scotland. However, local seamen and hunters believe (mistakenly so, I might add) that the sea eagle was responsible for the depletion fish and game and, as a result, the sea eagle was hunted to extinction in 1918 throughout the mainland and the islands. As in many places throughout the world, we have come to learn that predators, such as the sea eagle, are not capable of depleting game and particularly fish from the environment. So, beginning in 1975, a program was initiated to reintroduce the sea eagle to the Highlands and Islands of western Scotland by importing young birds from Norway. This has been so successful in western Scotland that they are no longer considered to be endangered but remain protected. In recent years, the program was expanded to include eastern Scotland and the lowlands. The birds initially introduced are too young to breed but they have now nearly reached maturity to do so. The sea eagle once again soars the skies of Scotland and returns to its ancient home. We say a brief video of the the sea eagle soaring and swooping to grasp fish in its talons. It was most appropriately accompanied by Mendelssohn's “Hebridean Overture”.
Also included in the Aros Experience was an extended video of the mountains of Skye, the Black Cullens and the Red Cullens, accompanied by moving music of the Islands. I must say that the video could have benefited from the addition of narrative, especially covering the history and peoples of Skye. However, this stop is well worth the time if only to hear the exuberance in the voice of the botanist involved in the eagle project.
On leaving the Aros Center, we made our way back to Portree to give those among us who felt more shopping time should be included in the tour. Fortunately, this also gave Amy and myself an opportunity to find a more acceptable fish and chips as our experience the previous day left us wanting. As fate would have it, all of the locals queried regarding the best such establishment gave us the same answer. Thus forearmed, we enjoyed a delightful luncheon. Afterward, we had ample time to stroll along the harbour.
From Portree, we traveled to Uig on the west coast of Skye. From here we were to catch the daily ferry the the Islands of Lewis and Harris. While Skye lies close enough to the Scottish mainland to construct a bridge, Lewis and Harris lie much further to the west across the stretch of water known as the Minch. The ferry ride took some two hours to make the crossing. In crossing The Minch, it is possible to encounter any of a number of sea creatures. These include at least six species of porpoise and dolphin, Minke, pilot, killer and fin whale, several species of seal and the basking shark, the largest fish inhabiting today’s oceans. Unfortunately, we saw none of the above. In fact, had we not seen gulls, we would have seen no life at all.
The Islands of Lewis and Harris are really one single land mass with no readily discernable demarcation line. Our destination on leaving Skye was the port of Tarbert, North Harris. (To complicate matters, Harris is itself divided into North and South Harris. The whole of North and South Harris is less than the total of Lewis, yet is is a single entity. Though I am sure there is an explanation, it remains a mystery to me at this time.) Later, when residents of Harris heard that we had ventured into (onto?) Lewis, they gave us the “stink eye”. I guess you have to live here to understand.
The Isle of Harris is known throughout the world for one thing -
On first making landing in Harris, we made our way to the Harris Tweed facility just off the quay. There many a hat was purchased by the gentlemen and bags, money purses and other accouterments by the ladies.
From there, it was but a short stroll to our accommoda-
Lovely Portree Harbour
Crossing The Minch with the remnants of Skye in the distance.
Alex checking out our ride to Harris & Lewis
Eilean Glas Lighthouse on the peninsula of Scalpay Island
Our intrepid trio just before landfall at Tarbert, Isle of Harris
The Port of Tarbert, Isle of Harris
The Isle of Harris is home to Harris Tweed