I've been back on home soil for a few days now. As much as I love to travel, its always good to be back where my heart is. Looking back on Ireland, there are a few things I feel need more elaboration.
The People
Everywhere we went we encountered friendly people with welcoming smiles. And their voices...always the Irish lilt in their voice. To some it
sounds like a foreign language -While the hustle and bustle are much different from home, I would not say that it's really different from any large American city, say New York or San Francisco. People in a hurry to get somewhere, whether it's a pub or to shop. And in Dublin I saw only one busker (actually a trio playing what sounded like 20's music, you know "Abode oh doh", like that) where in Glasgow and Edinburgh, they were on every block. Not sure why the difference.
The History
I, along with many Americans I think, tend to think of ancient Ireland as a pastoral land of quiet people tending their sheep, the Land of Poets and Saints. Or, as one of my favorite maxims goes "God invented beer to keep the Irish from conquering the world". The truth is that pre-
Some of the oldest known human dwellings, found at Carrowmore in County Sligo, date from the late Neolithic to the early Bronze Ages. Of Bronze Age Ireland, little is known. However, it was during this time that many of the barrows and stone circles (such as the Ballynoe Stones) were constructed.
At the close of the Bronze Age, Ireland saw the arrival of the Celts (that's Celts like Kelts, not the basketball team) from Gaul (modern day
France). The Celts brought with them one major advantage -The following is a timeline of the major events in Irish History. All dates are AD.
- c.110 -
Conn Cétchathach is crowned the first High King of Ireland whose line lasted into the 11th century. - 220 -
Cormac mac Airt rules Ireland as the High King. - 397 -
Niall Noígíallach (Niall of the Nine Hostages) is named High King of Ireland - 432 or 460 -
Saint Patrick arrives in Ireland and introduces Christianity. - 852 -
Vikings establish a fortress at the site of Dublin - 1014 -
Defeat of Viking forces by Brian Boru, High King of Ireland, at the Battle of Clontarf ending Viking rule - 1171 -
Henry II of England lands at Waterford and declares himself the Lord of Ireland - 1315 -
Edward Bruce, brother of Robert the Bruce arrives in Ireland and is declared High King - 1607 -
The Flight of the Earls, leaving Ireland leaderless - 1690 -
The Battle of the Boyne and victory by William of Orange - 1691 -
Flight of the Wild Geese, the departure of the Irish Jacobite army to France, ending organized resistance to English rule - 1695 -
Penal Laws enacted limiting the freedom of Catholics and dissenting Protestants such as Presbyterians - 1867 -
The Fenian Rising - 1916 -
The Easter Rising - 1919 -
Ireland issues a Declaration of Independence and the Irish War of Independence - 1920 -
Last of the Penal Laws revoked - 1921 -
Northern Ireland is established under English rule - 1937 -
The Constitution of Ireland is enacted - 1949 -
The Republic of Ireland Act is signed abolishing all roles of the British monarch - 1998 -
The Good Friday Agreement in Northern Ireland ends much of the civil conflict - 220 -
The Penal Laws which affected Irish Roman Catholics and Protestant dissenters (including Presbyterians) were some the most repressive laws against free people ever enacted. Though it is not possible to compare them directly to the Apartheid laws passed in South Africa, they were at least as egregious if not worse.
The Religion
It is difficult to dissociate Ireland's history and religion, but I'll try. Legendary history of Ireland has it that among the earliest inhabitants of the island were the Fir Bolg. The Fir Bolg were then defeated by the invading Tuatha Dé Danann (literally, The Children of the Goddess Danu)
who came from north (or possibly the west) of Ireland. The were, in time, defeated by the Milesians who came from Iberia (present day Galicia and Northern Portugal). (These were probably the Celts from Gaul.) The Melisians defeated three of the Tuatha Dé Danann's goddesses, one of whom was known as Ériu, from whom present day Eire takes it's name.
After their defeat, the Tuatha Dé took refuge in the barrows and mounds of Ireland where they still dwell today. Known as the Aes Sidhe (literally The People of the Mounds), they have slipped into Irish legend as the wee people, the Fairies.
Christianity in Ireland actually dates to before the 5th century. Pope Cilistine sent Palladius to be the first Bishop of the Irish Christians in 431
but he was soon banished by the King of Leinster. Saint Patrick arrived possibly as early as 432 or as late as 460 and proceeded to Christianize most of the north of Ireland.
In 1171 Henry II, with the support of the Irish clergy, declares himself King of Ireland at the Rok of Cashel. This paved the way for Protestantism when, in 1536, Henry VIII broke from the Catholic Church and declared himself Head of the Church of England and the Church of Ireland. Many Irish continued to worship as Catholics until the defeat of the Irish by William of Orange at the Battle of the Boyne in 1690. Beginning in the early 17th century, a series of Penal Laws were enacted that severely limited the rights of Catholics and descenting Presbyterians to hold office and even to vote or own property. It would not be until 1920 that these laws were fully repealed and Catholicism would be allowed to be openly exercised.
The Food
It is probably quite evident that one of my major highlights in travel is the food. Northern Ireland being British, you can expect every meal to include peas (what we refer to as English peas) and carrots. And in Ireland, you can expect a healthy serving of potatoes as side dishes in many forms -
If you want a cold drink, I would suggest a beer, particularly a Guinness. If you ask for a cold drink or ice water (if you don’t say “Ice” it’ll just be water), expect maybe two ice cubes. And order “iced tea” at your own risk -
Here’s a list of typical items you might find on a menu.
- Bangers -
A typical link type sausage, bigger than our links and smaller than a hot dog. Their texture is dense and they include spices that I do not normally associate with sausage. They are usually served at breakfast or as a main course as Bangers and Mash (mashed potatoes). Personally, I hate them. - Steak Pie -
Usually includes Guinness and, if you can find one including cheese (often a blue such as a Stilton), you’ve hit the jackpot. It is chunks of beef in a dark gravy, usually with cubed potatoes. I prefer mine with a baked on top crust, though, more often a separate puff pastry crust is set on top. And sometimes it is topped with mashed potatoes. - Gammon -
Baked ham usually served as a ham steak. For some reason I’ve never ordered it so I can’t really give an opinion. - Goujons -
Strips or nuggets, most often chicken. But it can be goujons of fish. - Fish & Chips -
The English seem to lean toward cod which I find to be somewhat tasteless. The Scots tend more to haddock which, while still a white fish in the cod family, I find to be more tasteful. More than once we were served what purported to be haddock but appeared to be and tasted like cod. - Yorkshire Pudding -
When a Brit says pudding, he does not mean something eaten with a spoon (that would be a custard or a curd). Yorshire pudding is more of a bread baked in a muffn tin traditionally in beef fat. I like it served with the traditional Sunday meal of roast beef and roasted potatoes (probably with a side of peas and carrots). Take my word for it you’ll like it. - Black and White Pudding -
Actually, this is a type of sausage including meat, fat, oatmeal and bread or potato fillers. Black pudding includes a healthy amount of blood that gives it its color. You will probably get a slice if you order the traditional Irish breakfast. Often it is sliced and fried like American sausage patties. - Bacon -
Irish (and British) bacon is taken from the back of the pig rather than the belly. It is sort a combination of Canadian bacon and a short piece of American bacon stuck on. Much leaner than American bacon. If you want more of an American style bacon, look for streaky> bacon. Good luck. - Boxty -
A traditional Irish potato pancake. Made of approximately equal parts of grated potato, mashed potato and flour, it is neither a hash brown nor a potato pancake. In fact, the flour makes it almost a potato bread. I’ll pass. - Beans -
These are like our canned pork and beans, sans pork. They are often served as part of a traditional Irish breakfast, either on toast or atop a broiled tomato half. Actually, I find the broiled tomato more pallatable than the combination. Not really my idea of a breakfast food. 
- Porridge -
Oats, plain and simple. If anyone knows how to make a proper bowl of oats, its the Scots and the Irish (probably coming from their Scottish forebears). Smooth and creamy with lots of Irish butter (the best butter in the world), some brown sugar or maple syrup, a handful of sultanas (raisins) or dried cherries and maybe a few nuts (English walnuts of course) and you’ll be hooked. - Coffee -
Coffee will usually be a cup of the European variety - more like an espresso. If you want something closer to home, order the Americano (of course). - Steak Pie -
So, as at home, I find breakfast to be my favorite meal of the day. (Perhaps it’s because it’s been so long since supper.) A bowl of porridge, a rasher of bacon (Irish), some sauteed mushrooms and a cup of Americano and I’m set for the day…at least until lunch.
Anytime you can find an interesting seafood dish, you will probably be pleased. No place in Ireland is more than 140 miles from the sea so all of the seafood is fresh. Species that are commonly found on the menu are cod, haddock, halibut, flounder, bass, turbot, pollack, skate and plaice (a cheap but delicious flat fish). Fresh water salmon and trout should not be overlooked, especially the wild variety. And don’t forget shrimp, often billed as prawn or scampi, whether they be large or cocktail size.
Though there are sheep everywhere, I found few lamb dishes on the menu. In fact, I did not find it on any menu where we ate. On my original trip to Ireland, I had lamb chops at the Barge Inn that were among the best I’ve eaten…period. So, if you find it, I’d suggest you try it.
The Music
Certainly one of the reasons to visit Ireland is its music. Here are samples of the music that I recorded while there. Recording live music in an Irish pub has its challenges. There is a constant background of patter known as craic (pronounced crack).
The Tennessee Waltz
Pleasant and Delightful (The Larks They Sang Melodious)
The Bells of St. Patrick's Cathedral
The Fairy Garden at the Cottage
My friend, Pam, asked how the driving in Ireland compared to my experience in Italy. (Click here for my discussion on this.) First I'll say that they are WORLDS apart. It's not just driving on the left or shifting gears with the wrong hand, it's the attitude of the drivers. I drove in Ireland for eight days and was only cut off once! Drivers actually see the traffic signs, lane lines and speed limits as rules, not just suggestions...well except maybe for the speed limits. The drivers are much more courteous though; while I never received the one finger salute, I did receive a couple of thumbs up that appeared to be more sarcastic than "atta boy". And there are significantly fewer motor cyclists and scooter drivers and even bicyclists, most of whom still seem to think that the road rules only apply to them loosely. Would I rather drive on the right side of the road with an automatic shift in Sicily or on the wrong side of the road with a straight shift in Ireland? Hands down, the answer is Ireland.
Here are few tips should you find yourself driving in a country that is British or was once a member of the Empire (including some Caribbean islands).
- Always look to the right first. The traffic in the lane nearest you is coming from the right. (This especially applies to walking. When walking in cities, you should first glance down to the gutter as the roadway is often marked with the direction to look. Failure to be aware when you step off of a curb could be deadly.)
- After coming to a stop, think about where you will go next. If you are turning right, you will go to the far lane. A left turn is into your immediate near lane.
- If you are turning right into an intersecting street, look to the oncoming right lane. Do not look into your passenger side mirror. There will be no traffic coming from that direction.
- When you enter a roundabout, the traffic is moving clockwise so you mustl turn left and yield to traffic from the right. However, if the traffic on the right is exiting prior to your entering road, you should proceed without stopping. Stopping when you don't have to could result in being rear ended. However (again), while looking to the right you must keep an eye on the car ahead of you so that you don't rear end them should they stop (maybe they are a damn tourist).
- In general, on a four lane roadway, I will enter the roundabout in the left lane. This gives me good access to make a left turn exit. If you are in the right lane, you will wind up in the center lane and you will have to cross the left lane to exit and there may be cars in that lane. Europeans do a good job of marking the lanes indicating access to differing roadways. Try to stay in the lane marked for the roadway you are following e.g. M1 or A2.
- Some roundabouts have traffic signals, particularly in urban areas. Be aware.
- A last word on roundabouts -
in rural areas where I am proceeding straight through and there is little cross traffic, I just slow a little, assess the oncoming traffic then downshift and gun it. Much better than a traffic light or four way stop. - As a left seat driver, it is EXTREMELY difficult to judge the corners of the car from the right seat. Be aware of this in city driving where you have to go around objects (cars, dumpsters, bicyclists, etc.) and also in rural driving where the left edge of the extremely narrow roadway will often be a stone wall. If not a wall, then surely a hedge. Take my word for it, brushing a hedge when you meet a car on an all too often blind left curve will elicit girlish screams from all of your passengers, even the men. I know. It happened more than once.
Good luck...and good driving.
