This day our plans include a visit to Downpatrick, County Down, and Down Cathedral, the burial site of Saint Patrick. First, however, is the ugly matter of "the driver's license." We arose at 5:20am to get a jump on the world and return once more to the Dublin Airport to get John off of the driving list and me on it.
We had hoped to fly through Belfast before rush hour; however, the Irish do not seem to keep the same schedule as we Americans and we were delayed in passing through Belfast. This did not sit well with John who does not like driving in large towns at all. To add insult to injury, an hour or so later we ran into the Dublin rush hour. Fortunately, the airport is on the north side of town and we didn't have to go into Dublin.
Arriving at the airport, I made the decision to go to the car pickup and return place rather than the terminal. This proved to be the only good decision I made to this point. I had to find Kevin who had the power to bless my scanned and emailled license before they could put me on the car. My hope was that we could leave the car at the lot and take the shuttle to the correct terminal. However, when I went to the desk to ask where to find the all important Kevin, the gentleman behind the counter took a look at my text attachment on my phone, called Kevin and, viola, John was cancelled and I was now the new primary driver complete without taking the exorbitant insurance coverage. We were now free to roam without the stress and anxiety. Well, at least with lower levels.
Taking the wheel, we were soon on the old M1 headed north to Downpatrick, but first with a stop for a
very belated breakfast. Unforutnately, upon leaving the M1, we passed several establishments that did not appear to be open. Finally, after an hour and a half, we came into the town of Castlewellan and pulled into the first parking place we found. As it was right in front of an establishment that advertised breakfast, the Oak Grill, and being now about 10:30, we went in. Not our best decision for the food was at best mediocre, but about 20 minutes later we were back on the road.
Driving the off roads of Ireland is similar to driving in England and Scotland - both challenging and just a little invigorating. Throw in a straight shift and the thrill is elevated by a factor of ten. It is, to say the least, a challenge when meeting oncoming traffic on a narrow lane with a rock wall at the very edge of the pavement. And John said that at least once the left side mirror went over the top of the wall. We managed to skate into Downpatrick without physical injury and found a parking lot just adjacent to the St. Patrick's Centre. Here we purchased a few items including hats for Cissy and Tom. Quite becoming I must say. We also picked up a map of the town and, with it's guide, we next proceeded up about 1000 steps to the Down County Museum.
The Museum is located in the historic buildings of the eighteenth century County Gaol of Down. The Gaol was opened in 1796 and until its closure in 1830 housed thousands of prisoners including many insurgents in the rebellions, the most famous of which was Thomas Russell who was hanged in the front of the gaol for his role in the abortive rebellion of 1803.
Leaving the gaol, we proceeded just up English St, to the Down Cathedral. Also known as the Cathedral Church of the Holy and Undivided Trinity, it is a Church of Ireland cathedral. It is built on an ancient ecclesiastical site with a church dedicated to the Holy Trinity recorded as early as the 12th century. However, there are records of early Celtic monasteries on this site dating back to the 6th century. According to tradition, on this site John de Courcy reinterred the three patron saints of Ireland - St. Patrick, St. Brigid and St. Collumcille thus fulfilling the prophecy “In Down, three saints one grave do fill, Patrick, Brigid and Columcille”. St. Columcille is also known as St. Columba who founded the Abbey on Iona, thus bringing Christianity to Scotlanc
Leaving Down Cathedral and St. Patrick, we proceeded to the other end of the spectrum. Three miles south of and 10,000 years from Down Cathedral lies the Stone Circle of Ballynoe. Parking our car, we walked about 450 feet down what I can only describe as a tunnel of hedges and trees lined with a three foot rock wall. All along the path, gifts had been left for the Wee Folk - stones, figurines, doo-dads and gee-gaws. At one location what I can only describe as a small alter had been made by placing a stone inscribed with the word Peace, a metal T-Rex , plastic action figures and even a figure of Jesus Christ. Whether for luck or just as offerings to the Fae Folk, they were quite interesting to see.
At the end of the tunnel a large field opened to the stones. Ballynoe is made up of two circles comprised of over 50 stones surrounding what appears to me to be a barrow. A barrow is a small mound of dirt sometimes placed over a burial site. It is also known to be the home of the Wee Folk, the Sidhe (pronounced Shee and meaning the people of the mound). Probably the best know of these is the Bean Siddhe (or Banshee), whose wail is thought to presage the death of a family member. Unfortunately we did not come upon the Sidhe this day nor, thankfully, did not hear the wail of the Bean Sidhe.
Along with Ballynoe, I have now visited five circles - the Stone Ring at Kinmare, Co Kerry in Ireland, the Ring of Brodgar in the Orkneys, the Callanash Standing Stones on the Isle of Harris and, of course, Stonehenge on the Salisbury Plain in England.
Returning to the Cottage, we took but a moment to unload our wares and proceeded immediately to Mattie's for dinner this being only our second meal of the day! This night nothing would do for me but Boxer Jim's Guinness Pie and, of course, a pint of Guinness to wash it down. A cup of coffee and Bailey's and I was done. Well worth the wait and the better met for waiting so long.
This day ended much as it started - rainy and rather chilly. However, it did not put a damper on our first real day as a tourist in Ireland. And the morrow would prove to be much better, in fact, quit a delight.
We had hoped to fly through Belfast before rush hour; however, the Irish do not seem to keep the same schedule as we Americans and we were delayed in passing through Belfast. This did not sit well with John who does not like driving in large towns at all. To add insult to injury, an hour or so later we ran into the Dublin rush hour. Fortunately, the airport is on the north side of town and we didn't have to go into Dublin.
Arriving at the airport, I made the decision to go to the car pickup and return place rather than the terminal. This proved to be the only good decision I made to this point. I had to find Kevin who had the power to bless my scanned and emailled license before they could put me on the car. My hope was that we could leave the car at the lot and take the shuttle to the correct terminal. However, when I went to the desk to ask where to find the all important Kevin, the gentleman behind the counter took a look at my text attachment on my phone, called Kevin and, viola, John was cancelled and I was now the new primary driver complete without taking the exorbitant insurance coverage. We were now free to roam without the stress and anxiety. Well, at least with lower levels.
Taking the wheel, we were soon on the old M1 headed north to Downpatrick, but first with a stop for a
very belated breakfast. Unforutnately, upon leaving the M1, we passed several establishments that did not appear to be open. Finally, after an hour and a half, we came into the town of Castlewellan and pulled into the first parking place we found. As it was right in front of an establishment that advertised breakfast, the Oak Grill, and being now about 10:30, we went in. Not our best decision for the food was at best mediocre, but about 20 minutes later we were back on the road.
Driving the off roads of Ireland is similar to driving in England and Scotland -
The Museum is located in the historic buildings of the eighteenth century County Gaol of Down. The Gaol was opened in 1796 and until its closure in 1830 housed thousands of prisoners including many insurgents in the rebellions, the most famous of which was Thomas Russell who was hanged in the front of the gaol for his role in the abortive rebellion of 1803.
Leaving the gaol, we proceeded just up English St, to the Down Cathedral. Also known as the Cathedral Church of the Holy and Undivided Trinity, it is a Church of Ireland cathedral. It is built on an ancient ecclesiastical site with a church dedicated to the Holy Trinity recorded as early as the 12th century. However, there are records of early Celtic monasteries on this site dating back to the 6th century. According to tradition, on this site John de Courcy reinterred the three patron saints of Ireland -
Leaving Down Cathedral and St. Patrick, we proceeded to the other end of the spectrum. Three miles south of and 10,000 years from Down Cathedral lies the Stone Circle of Ballynoe. Parking our car, we walked about 450 feet down what I can only describe as a tunnel of hedges and trees lined with a three foot rock wall. All along the path, gifts had been left for the Wee Folk -
At the end of the tunnel a large field opened to the stones. Ballynoe is made up of two circles comprised of over 50 stones surrounding what appears to me to be a barrow. A barrow is a small mound of dirt sometimes placed over a burial site. It is also known to be the home of the Wee Folk, the Sidhe (pronounced Shee and meaning the people of the mound). Probably the best know of these is the Bean Siddhe (or Banshee), whose wail is thought to presage the death of a family member. Unfortunately we did not come upon the Sidhe this day nor, thankfully, did not hear the wail of the Bean Sidhe.
Along with Ballynoe, I have now visited five circles -
Returning to the Cottage, we took but a moment to unload our wares and proceeded immediately to Mattie's for dinner this being only our second meal of the day! This night nothing would do for me but Boxer Jim's Guinness Pie and, of course, a pint of Guinness to wash it down. A cup of coffee and Bailey's and I was done. Well worth the wait and the better met for waiting so long.
This day ended much as it started -
