Day 9 - Co Clare & Co Galway
It is Wednesday the 17th and another travel day. Today we pull up stakes and move our operations to Galway, Co. Galway. So we head north to catch the Tarbert Ferry that crosses the River Shannon, Ireland’s longest river, near its mouth.
As our ferry pulled away from the quay at Tarbert, Co. Kerry, we sighted the Tarbert Lighthouse that marks the Bowline Rock. Commissioned in 1834, the lighthouse guides vessels to the Tarbert Roads anchorage.
Our ferry journey terminated at Killimer, Co. Clare, and we proceeded along the Atlantic coast north past Liscannor Bay and Hag’s Head until we finally came upon the Cliffs of Moher. Rising over 700 feet from the Atlantic, some cliffs can boast to being higher, but few can boast of rising vertically from the ocean. The cliffs extend from Hag’s Head north for approximately five miles to Doolin. The Cliffs were featured in the movie “The Princess Bride” and will be seen in the upcoming “Harry Potter and the Half-
Blood Prince”. Look for it in the exterior shots of the cave scene where Harry and Dumbledore are hunting for one of the elusive horcruxes.
The cliffs are home to over 30,000 seabirds from 29 species including Amy’s favorite, the Atlantic Puffin. I spotted many birds soaring from the sheer cliffs, but, alas, none appeared to be puffins. I stood in the gusting winds of Moher for several minutes watching the sea-birds soar in the updrafts along the cliffs. The day being clear, I could see westward to the Aran Islands at the mouth of Galway Bay. I can truly say that in all of my travels, I have not seen a sight that compares to this.
I slowly made my way back to the coach, reluctant to leave, knowing I might not come this way again. I have come to enjoy traveling with others, sharing the time and the adventure; however, it is times like these that I regret that there are schedules to keep beyond my control. But then, who is to say that, had the situation been otherwise, I would have arrived at this place at this time and in the same frame of mind. All I know is that few locations on this earth have touched me in the way I have been touched this day and in this place! (I recollect my earlier journey to Uluru in the Australian outback with a similar reminiscence.)
Fareweel you Cliffs of Moher, rising sheer from the sea to salute the setting sun.
The waves crashing at your feet, the winds dashing against your crags.
Reluctant is my departure.
However, leave I must, return or no.
As we pulled away from the Cliffs, Nigel reminded us that it was in fact lunch time and he had a couple of locations in mind. Fortunately, they were both engaged and he diverted us into the little village of Doolin and Gus O’Conner’s Pub. Known throughout Ireland and reputed to be the veritable home of Irish music, it boasts excellent local oysters and, of course, Smithwick’s Ale. My loss was soon forgotten, at least for the nonce, and, the world once again aright, I loosened my belt and reboarded the coach for our next adventure.
Our road to Galway would next take us through some of the most stark and, at the same time, the most varied landscape in Ireland - the Burren. The name Burren comes from the Irish word bhoireann which literally means a stony place. It was created by the retreat of massive glaciers during the last ice age leaving behind a land scoured of topsoil with the bones of the earth exposed to the sky. However, enough topsoil remains to grow a wide variety of flora from alpine to Mediterranean species. Botanist, geologists and archeologists come from all over the world to study this 300 square kilometers of ground. Throughout the Burren are ancient Dolmens and megalithic dwellings, some of which are believed to predate even the Pyramids in Egypt.
As we approached Galway, we passed through the little villiage of Kinvarra and past Dunguaire Castle. A Norman tower castle built in the 16th century, it is thought to be the most photographed castle in Ireland. (I add it to my current collection of the most photographed castles in their respective countries. Currently the collection consists of Eilean Donan in Scotland.) It is also believed that if you stand at the gate and venture a question, it will be answered before the day is out!
From here it was but a short drive to our hotel for the next two nights, the Ardilaun. As with our previous accommodations, this would prove to be excellent.
Western Ireland
To Day 10 - Connemara, Kylemore Abbey & Cong