The Orkneys, a Journey Back in Time

A Day to Remember
I awoke on day three at 7:30am, a day that would prove to be a signal event in my life. I quickly showered and dressed and went out to see Loch Harray in the daylight. I initially noted the strong winds I encountered and then that the local kine were all laying down in the lee of the nearby hill. I was later to learn that high winds, up to 80 mph, were the norm in the Orkneys and that this was, in fact, a very pleasant breeze.

Loch Harray is the largest loch on the Orkney mainland though small as lochs generally go. It is well known in throughout area for the fishing and the Merkister, for a fee, will provide a room complete with fishing gear and a small skiff. The Merkister is, in fact, well known throughout the British Isles as one of the most popular fishing hotels. The predominant fishing in the loch is for wild brown trout. Being more proficient with a cane pole and bobber, I declined to tackle the more sophisticated fly rod and reel. However, I did land a number of photographs of the local landscape flora and fauna.

After once again breaking my fast with a bowl of porridge (oatmeal to the colonists), we set out to explore this most intriguing of islands. Fortunately, Sharon had done her homework and had a list of sights to visit. We started with the Standing Stones of Stennes. I must stop here to note that, for some reason not readily known, the Isle of Orkney is the site of many of the most marvelous creations of Neolithic man in the world. Perhaps it was the proximity of the sea, the land and the lochs that provided many of the necessities of life. For whatever reason, within about fifteen minutes of driving are a number of major archaeological sites. While we simply did not have the time to visit them all, we made a great dent in the major sites.

The Standing Stones of Stennes date back to 3000 to 2500BC (Stonehenge upon the Salisbury Plain in England dates to 2500BC). Though only a few stones remain standing, they at one time were comprised of a ring of 12 stones. (It is rumored that many of the missing stones can be found as lintels in surrounding homes.)

From the Stones of Stennes we traveled but a few short minutes north and there found the Ring of Brodgar. The ring is comprised of a total of 60 stones of which only 24 remain standing. (Ditto on the lentils.) It sits on a promontory situated between Loch Harray and Loch Stennes. The ring is approximately 125 yards in diameter and is encircled by a 30 foot ditch. The ring dates from about 3000BC and it is believed that many astronomical events may be interpreted from their alignment including the date of the lighting of the Fires of Beltane. Beltane would signal the beginning of Spring and would generally be celebrated with much debauchery and cavorting among the heather. Why such celebrations have been replaced with more “civilized” traditions I cannot explain.

In the winter of 1850, a great storm battered the northwest coast of Orkney. While this was not particularly unique as weather goes, it did result in a most fortuitous event. The Neolithic village of Skara Brea was unearthed which has proved to be a treasure to us all. The site has been excavated a number of times with the latest in 1930. Today we are privileged to see how people of that age lived in this northern land. We know of eight dwellings linked by stone passages that were constructed between 3200 and 2200BC. This is truly a unique view into the lives of our ancient ancestors that I might never have gotten to see had I not made this journey.

On leaving Skara Brae, we took a quick jaunt to the north to Brough Head. Laying along the northwest of the island it is a magnificent scene of the coast. From here, we journeyed back south to make a quick stop at the Orkney Brewery. Unfortunately, we were not able to tour the small establishment, but I was able to talk the good brew master out of a bottle of his excellent Red MacGregor to be enjoyed by me and my daughter Amy at a latter time.

At this time we had an appointment to tour the neolithic burial site known as Maeshowe. This is a burial mound that was created some time around 2750BC by the early inhabitants. It was constructed as a stone chamber with three side chambers that were then covered by a mound of dirt. The entrance was so arranged as to allow the rising sun of the Winter Solstice to shine between the Hills of Hoy and directly into the entrance way and into the central chamber. This is the only day of the year that the sunrise illuminates the chamber. Additionally, in the 12th century, the howe was used used by Vikings to escape a local storm. While taking refuge within the howe, they carved many runes along the walls. Though these runes were not original to the creation of the howe, they have come to be much a part of it.

To enter the howe you must traverse approximately 36 feet of passageway that is but 27.5 inches high, no easy feat for a large person such as myself. However, the feeling of antiquity and awe that came upon me as I stood in the dim chamber imparts a spiritual feeling of unity with our ancestors. I must admit that I felt a light headedness, though mayhap it was from the beer consumed at lunch. Finally our time within the howe came to a close and we once more made our way to the light of day. I came away not quite the person that entered that hallowed howe.

After leaving Maeshowe, we had some time remaining before once again embarking on the Pentland Ferry back to the mainland. To while away the time, we decided to drive through the local burgh of Stromness. After all, we had been encountering signs pointing us to the town all of the day. And, as in Rome, so in Orkney, it seems that all roads lead to Stromness. As we came into the town, we took a small road that veered to our right. This road turned out to be little more than a walkway between buildings. However, once committed, we had little choice but to follow it to its end. So winding up the narrow street between buildings, we made the circuitous route to the end.

Finally it came time to take leave of this elder isle and so we made our way back to St. Margaret's Hope and to our ferry. And thus ended a day that I truly feel belongs in my list of days not to be forgotten. I have now spent over 3000 days on this earth and the combination of the weather, the scenery, the people, the history and, not the least of all, the companionship of my good friend Sharon Campbell certainly made this one of a handful of days to remember.