Day 4 - On the Road Again


Departing Edinburgh
So here it is, Wednesday, August 20th for those that are trying to keep up. My 9th day in Scotland and the 4th day of the Beaton tour. Once again I find myself, along with my fellow travelers many of whom I have now come to think of as friends, back on the road again. As we take leave of the fair city of Edinburgh, I feel I should take a moment to introduce you to some of my fellow travelers. By now you should know of Amy and Erin, Alex and Barry and Sharon. We are also joined on this trip by fellow Beatonites from the Incursion of 2008, Pam and Merv Forney. Pam and Merv are jolly traveling companions and I see them annually at the Grandfather Mountain Games. They would prove to again be welcome and steady companions on this trip. I should include here also Ms. Tammy Bynum. Tammy is Sharon's roomy on the tour and a fellow Texan, whom I met several years ago at the Arlington Games. This does, of course, only begin to enumerate all of the members of our troupe. I will try to include others as I go along. And I sincerely apologize in advance should I not include each and every one.

As we departed Edinburgh, I reflected on my journey to this point. Certainly, the day in Orkney was signal and one that would remain with me the rest of my days. This was followed by the low point knowing that Amy was stuck in a city not of her choosing. However, with her arrival and the night spent together at the Tattoo and now leaving Edinburgh for new adventures, the world once again seemed aright and so I set forth happy in my circumstances. Even with the continuing rain. I must add that the rain this year in Scotland has been one for the record books. Somehow, this seems to be my luck. My first trip in '03 was on the tail end of a record heat wave in Scotland and throughout Europe.

Anstruther and Fish and Chips
So once again we crossed the Forth Bridge over the Firth of Forth and entered the Kingdom of Fife. I take a moment here to explain that the term “firth” means no more than an estuary or opening to the sea. And The Tide is Out at Anstruther the Firth of Forth is the firth over the River Forth. QED! As we traveled along the A921 with the Firth off of our right hand shoulder, the rain began to ease portending an excellent day to journey. Our first stop was in the charming fishing village of Anstruther (or Anster as the locals call it) where we stopped at the annually voted “Best Fish & Chips in Scotland”. I had been waiting for this opportunity for nine days now and I dove into Fish & Chips with a pint of Tennents Beer. Finally, I had attained a state of gastronomic enlightenment. I had not eaten this, my favorite of Scottish repasts, before this moment waiting for the crème de la crème. Now I felt free to partake as the opportunity arises. I could only top this experience with a stroll around this lovely little village and reflect on the men that go to sea so that we might enjoy the bounty of their labors.

Along the streets of Anstruther. Chalmers Lighthouse guards the entrance to Anstruther Harbour. The tide is out in the Anstruther Harbour. Lunch at the Anstruther Fish Bar. St Andrews
We left Anstruther several pounds heavier than when we arrived, though several pounds lighter in the wallet, and drove ever north to the town of St. Andrews. Named after the patron saint of Scotland, it is, of course, one of the holies of the golf world, home of the Royal and Ancient. It is also the home of Scotland's oldest university founded in 1410. This being my third visit to this lovely city, I decided to look for something out of the way. I discovered near the golf museum a small but delightful aquarium. After visiting with these spiny creatures, I strolled along the strand of St. Andrews Bay, the sight of the opening scene from the movie “Chariots of Fire”. Though it had continued to rain off and on much of the day, I had by now become accustomed to it and was in no way annoyed by the occurrence.

The Strand at St. Andrews. Playing the 18th at The Old Course. I rejoined Alex and Barry aboard our trusty coach where we reminisced about previous trips and Barry once again asserted his desire to travel to America and, more specifically, to Tennessee. Eventually, our troupe wound their way among the shops and sights back to the coach and we proceeded to the Banchory Lodge Hotel, our base for the next two nights.

Passing through Dundee, we encountered the RRS Discovery, enlisted in the exploration of Antarctica in 1902. The Banchory Lodge Hotel
I must say that the Bachory Lodge Hotel is one of my favorite stops on the tour and proved to be so for my traveling companions. I sometimes wish that I had not stayed here before so that I could experience it again for the first time. However, each time I return, it is an added page to my story that I treasure. I must say that no two rooms at the Banchory are alike. It is this eclecticism that adds much to the charm. Our host, known only to me as Maggie, could be a look alike for the Queen herself and I believe this adds much to the appeal of the establishment. The lodge lies on the banks of the Dee River, known in these parts as Royal Deeside because of the Royals love of the area and frequent visits to Balmoral Castle. When the coach first arrives and emerges from the trees on the drive and the Lodge and Dee open up before us, I know it takes the breath of many of the troupe because it continues to take mine every time. Should you visit this ancient land, you could find no better location to spent your days than this lovely and, dare I say, romantic location. You'll not be disappointed.

My tower room at the Banchory Lodge. The River Dee from my tower room. The River Dee meanders along the banks at the Banchory. The Banchory sets an excellent table and, for the first meal, we were served a delicious bowl of Cullin Skink for starters. I know that the name sounds somewhat daunting (I personally think of the blue tailed lizard of the same name each time I hear it) but it consists of smoked haddock, potatoes and onions (think fish chowder with smoked haddock) in a creamy soup and the Banchory's version is the best I've tasted. For my main course, I choose the loin of lamb which proved to be an excellent choice.

With such an ending to a most perfect day, I drifted up to may room (once again, one that I would label “The Tower Room” for it was the highest room in the lodge) for an excellent nights sleep.

Day 5 - Along Royal Deeside